Kami Rita Sherpa 2nd Ascents of this Season 12 Years of Service

Mt. Makalu

Mt. Malkalu lies in eastern part of Nepal. Mt. Malkalu rises to 8463m. above the sea level. Mr Jean Couzy of France scaled Mt. Malkalu 1st time on May 15, 1955 via west Face. It lies in the northeast region of Nepal’s Himalaya and close neighbor to Mount Everest. Makalu means the Great Black One, so called due to its dark brooding appearance.
This highest mountain lies at position of : Latitude: 27 °53’23’’ & Longitude 87°05’20’’
1st Nepali Climber: Mr. Ang Chepal Sherpa (May 01, 1978)
Normal Ascent Route: North West Face
Caravan Route: Ktm- Tumlingtar-Chichila-Num-Yak Kharkha-BC

Mount Makalu (8463 meters / 27766 feet) Expedition in Nepal is very adventurous route to climb because on the Mount Makalu west face it is a little bit dangerous as well. The 5 attempts were made before climbing this mountain; then only it was succeeded in the final. The West Face of this mountain was successfully scaled in 1997. The Russian expedition had taken the route of this West Face of mount Makalu, leaded by Sergey Efimov and climbed the top on 21st of May via the most difficult route. The last part of the route had gone on Parago ridge. Alexei Bolotov, Yuri Ermachek, Dmitri Pavlenko, Igor Bugachevski and Nikolai Jiline had climbed on the top of mount Makalu at this time For this ascent they were awarded the “Gold ice-axe”.

The routes are of 4 parts:
The bottom part starts from the base of the West Face at 5800 meters and climbs to the hanging ice-fall at 6100 meters to the right part of the ice-fall. The second part extends from the plateau above the ice-fall along 35 to 45 degree elevation’s rock up to the 6500 meters high. The next section is an ice-rock wall, 50 to 55 degrees steep & that extends to 7400 meters height. The last final section begins 70 to 75 degree elevation’s rock pillar, which leads to the west ridge at 8000 meters height till to the top of the summit.

Ropes are typically fixed from 5800 meters to 6100 meters and from 6500 meters to 7500 meters. Camps established by the Russian Team were at the following locations. The French Route on the West Pillar is an aesthetically stunning line that has been seldom attempted. It is an exceedingly difficult, a very steep pillar that was first successfully ascended in 1971. The crux of the line comes at approximately 7600 meters in the area of the Seignior Wall. The first US team to summit was in 1980, they scaled via this West Pillar Route. The team was made up of Jim States, John Roskelley, Kim Momb and Chris Kopczynski. They topped on the summit of Mount Makalu (8463 meters / 27766 feet) without the use of oxygen and Sherpa support.

Day 01: Arrival Kathmand & transfer to hotel
Day 02: Prepare Expedition
Day 03: Expedition Briefing in Ministry of tourism
Day 04: Fly to Tumlingtar & drive Num
Day 05: Num- Seduwa
Day 06: Seduwa – Tashigaun
Day 07: Tashigaun – Khongma La (Danda)
Day 08: Khongmadanda – Mumfuk
Day 09: Mumfuk -Yangle Kharak
Day 10: Yangle Khark -Merak
Day 11: Merak -Sersung (half day rest) for acclimatize
Day 12: Sersung – Makalu Base camp
May 2012 Day 13-47: Climbing Period for Makalu (8463m)
Day 48: Makalu BC – Mumbuck
Day 49: Mumbuck – Khongma La (Danda)
Day 50: Khongma La – Seduwa
Day 51: Seduwa – Chichila
Day 52: Chichila – Tumlingtar
Day 53: Fly to Kathmandu & transfer to hotel
Day 54: Kathmandu
Day 55: Final Departure

  • Hotel in Kathmandu with bed & Breakfast with Tourist Standard
  • Climbing Permit fee of Makalu 8463 meter Expedition
  • Food for Trekking and base camp of Makalu
  • Staff: 1 trekking & B.C. Guide, Cook, Cook helper
  • Porters or Yak porter Lukla to Base camp & Base camp to Lukla
  • Kathmandu –Tmlingtar – Kathmandu flights with Cargo 40 KG per climber
  • Equipment allowance, daily allowance for Liaison officer, expedition staff
  • Life, Medical and rescue Insurance for Nepali expedition staff & Liaison officer
  • 1 tent for 1 climber for base camp and 1 tent for 2 climber for trekking north face or similar
  • Mattresses, dining tent, Toilet tent, Store tent, Table and chairs trekking & expedition B.C.
  • Pick & drop Kathmandu Airport-hotel-airport
  • Emergency Oxygen -Mask and regulator in base camp, use pay it
  • Provides satellite phone service (Pay calls)
  • Welcome dinner with typical Nepali restaurant with song & dance
  • Solar panel for Batteries charge and lighting
  • Agency service charge

  • Personal equipment for trekking & climbing
  • Personal & medical Insurance of expedition climber
  • Climbing food, Gas & stove above Base camp
  • Lunch & dinner in Kathmandu
  • Emergency Rescue evacuation by helicopter incase needed
  • Fixed rope
  • Walkie Talkie permit & Satellite phone permit
  • Oxygen & Mask –regulator
  • Personal expenses
  • Bar Bills & beverage
  • Garbage deposit USD 3000 (Sharing of the total person) & deposit fee will be not
  • Refunded if the climber don’t take back their garbage to base camp & Kathmandu.

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